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EK4-S2 Break in tips and settings. 

Congratulations on your purchase of the biggest, meanest, baddest RC truck to ever roll off a production line.

    Let me start off with some information that is relative to carb settings. -

    1st. We use nothing but Coolpower 30% Heli Fuel and (MC-59 winter/OS#8 summer) Glow Plugs. We are in New England USA, so while this works extremely well for us, it may not be the best choice for you if you are in a warmer climate. I'll update concerning warmer climates as soon as I get some solid info. I personally do not recommend even trying to run an EK4 with the stock glow plug at this point.

 

    UPDATE: From what information I have gathered as well as our 3 trucks now running in early summer temps, their isn't enough variation in the settings to be concerned about climate differences. Altitude may be another story. I can't offer much advice on that other than the higher up you are, the leaner you will need to run. Always start on the richest settings and work your way down.

 

    Ace's, (Thunder Tigers northeast distributor and support system) official recommendation is to use fuel with minimum 20% to maximum 30% nitro and at least 20% lubricant.

    They also recommend an MC59 plug with 20% nitro and an O.S. #8 with 30%.

    Things you may need to know. -

    It is common for the Pro .70 in the EK4 to stall out when they have been idling or just started and you apply the throttle. Once you get it broken in and dialed in, you'll only have to be careful the first time you apply the throttle after it starts and runs for a few seconds, or if you have let it idle for any length of time. I think they tend to load up with fuel and or cool down when idling and you just have to learn the technique to clean it out without stalling it.

    Usually a very slow application of throttle works, but if it is really rich or has idled for too long, sometimes it will go to stall even then and you have to either stop advancing the throttle or back out of it, then give it a split second and go again. You'll get the feel for it after a while.

    Don't let the scenario above fool you into leaning it out too much.

    Also, if you are too lean it will stall as well. You usually can tell whether it is too lean or rich by the sound of the engine. A rich setting that causes it to stall will usually give a sputtering choking sound with lots of smoke, which to me is normal operation in the scenarios above. A lean stall will usually be smooth and fast without much if any smoke or warning.

    Our EK4's are tuned so they will always want to load up and stall the first time you go to take off after starting them or if they have been idling for any length of time.

    Onto the settings. -

 

    If your not positive on the identification and location of the different Carburetor settings, click on this picture to open a larger labeled diagram.

 

 

    I'm not sure why we don't post the from flush settings for the low and mid. If you have moved the idle speed screw at all, the turns out from closed setting, (like the manual states) will be inaccurate.

    We use the following. -

Low Speed (screw in throttle slide facing the throttle servo)= 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 turns in from flush. Or 2 to 2-1/2 out from closed.

Mid (screw in the exhaust side facing the exhaust) = 1/4 turn in from flush to 1/4 out from flush. Flush is factory and what I recommend.

High (screw facing up and forward) = 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 turns out from fully closed for break in. 4 was excellent for us.

    I don't think we have ever gone below 3-3/4 turns on the high speed on the 3 Engines we are running now. Even after break in was completed.

    Here is the procedure I follow. -

   1. Set the High Speed to 4-1/2 turns out from fully closed or in.
    2. Set the mid flush/factory, if it's not already there..
    3. Turn the low out until it's flush and then back in 1-1/4 turn. If you aren't comfortable with the in from flush setting, make sure your idle speed is set at or near factory and while holding the throttle linkage in the idle position, turn the low speed all of the way in and then back out 2 turns from fully closed or in.

    Make sure you have a good MC-59 or O.S. #8 in it. Fill it up and fire it. Let it warm up for a second or two.

    Then, turn the lowspeed in 1/8th of a turn while the engine is running. If the revs pick up and stay up, turn the idle speed down a touch. Clean it out, let it settle for a second or two, then go in a little further on the low speed, wait a second or two in between changes. Don't wait too long or it will start to load up and or stall. When you turn it in and nothing happens or it stalls, go back out 1/8th to 1/4 turn. 1/8th if nothing happened or 1/4 if it stalled.

    The above procedure may be a little nerve racking because you may need to give it a little throttle in between adjustments to keep it running or to clean it out. Just stick with it and be patient. Also, don't try to set the idle speed really low.

    Now take it out and run it around. If it doesn't do the high idle after a throttle spurt thing, leave the high alone until you run a tank or two through it. If it idles up after a throttle spurt, richen the high another 1/4 turn. You should be pretty close on the high if you are between 3-3/4 and 4 turns out.

    If it stalls when you give it some throttle, (not counting when it's cold and just taking off for the first time) try going out 1/4 turn on the mid. If it stalls again or runs really bad, go back in that 1/4, plus another 1/4 turn.
 

      Important note: If it ever idles up after giving it a little throttle and takes a few seconds to return down to a normal idle - you are too lean. Richen the high speed needle app. 1/4 turn immediately. If it still does it, go another 1/4 turn. etc.

 

    After break in is complete (app. 1 to 2 gallons of fuel burned). -

Start turning the high speed in by 1/8th increments and then run it. It shouldn't wheelie right off with a full tank of fuel. After a minute or so the front wheels should start to lift.

If it wheelies right off, it may be too lean. Its nice when you get it adjusted so that for the first few laps it runs nice and rich and won't wheelie, then when the engine gets up to temp the front tires start to lift. Then when the tank gets down to half and lower, the front tires forget what dirt feels like.